Things Harmful to Frogs

Frogs are really delicate little creatures, and there are several things that can harm them, even in captivity. Many of the things that are harmful to frogs you do without ever realizing it. Below is a list of things harmful to frogs and how to prevent them.

Dirty Water:One of the most damaging and harmful things to frogs is dirty water. A frog's water can become dirty by the frog tracking things such as insects and substrate into the water. Frogs' waste can also build up in the water. So, the bottom line is: frogs need fresh water every day. Frogs have breathable skin, and it absorbs water (and anything in the water) like a sponge.
Frogs can become very sick from dirty water. And the water doesn't necessarily have to be dirty. If the frog's water has chemicals, chlorines, etc. in it, those will definitely get into your frog's system and can be fatal. To prevent many long-term illnesses and countless other problems, give your frog dechlorinated, fresh water every day.

To dechlorinate your water, you can purchase some water dechlorinater at any petstore that carries fish supplies. You should always have dechlorinated water on hand. If you are unable to purchase dechlorinater, leave the water out and let it sit before giving it to your frog for at least 2 days (48 hours). Remember: stale water is always better than fresh water (for a frog, at least).

Rough Handling:As I mentioned above, frogs are very delicate little creatures. Meaning, you can hurt them without even realizing it. Even if you are trying your hardest to be gentle while holding your frog, you should still read my article: Handling Frogs.

Dirty terrarium:Frogs can get several bacterial infections from: 1) Dirty water and 2) Dirty habitats. You need to clean out your frog's terrarium every week (two weeks at most) by rinsing out water dishes and plastic plants. Every 3 (4 weeks at most) weeks, change the frog's bedding and any wooden bark or logs in the habitat. To find out more, read my: Cleaning your Frog's Terrarium article.

Sharp objects:Sharp objects are mostly self-explanatory. Frogs can get scratched and cut, even to the point of bleeding on sharp objects. Sharp objects can be found on plastic plant leaves, wooden logs, or even on the substrate. Good substrates for frogs include: moss, terrarium liners, eco-earth dirt, or coconut fibers. Pebbles are not a good substrate, as they can fatally harm the frog if swallowed. Before allowing your frog into the terrarium, make sure there are no sharp edges that could harm it.

Calcium Deficiency:Calcium is an extremely important part of a frog's diet. Mealworms carry very little except all that exoskeleton (very little meat) and are nearly nutritionless. But they are a nice break from crickets once in a while. However, calcium is useless (from what I've heard) without vitamin D3. In the wild, frogs get vitamin D3 from the sunlight. Frogs need to be provided with: 1) 1 hour a day in full sunlight or 2) a vitamin D3 supplement powder. It is possible to "overdust" with calcium and D3. You need to balance all your frog's meals with each of these. The D3 is no good without the calcium, and the calcium is no good without the D3.

Overheating:As is obvious by the title, overheating is a harmful thing to frogs and can cause death, if not permanent damage. Overheating can be caused by a number of reasons.

1. Without a temperature and humidity guage, it's very hard to tell exactly what the temperature/humidity is inside the frog's habitat, and frogs can be too hot without you knowing it.


2. Too much heat being emitted from the lamp is a huge reason for frogs' overheating. On my frog's habitat, I have a lamp with a dimmer; you can adjust the light and heat being emitted. Also, if the lamp is too close to the frog's habitat, he could burn or overheat next to it.


3. Not having enough humidity in the frog's habitat, especially tree frogs' habitats, also adds to overheating in frogs. The lamp or heat evaporates the mist and water from the habitat, making it dry and hot. If you don't have a humidity guage for your frog's habitat, you should purchase on at the local petstore. Frogs need the humidity to be between 70% and 80%.


4. No water in water bowl. I know this sounds like a completely irrelevant reason, but like I mentioned before, the heat evaporates water, and quickly lowers the level of water in the frog's water bowl.

Disease:
Obviously! Disease is the largest factor for frog's death and is extremely harmful to frogs. Disease can be caused by dirty water, dirty terrarium, or other sick reptiles and amphibians. Fresh water for frogs every day is a MUST. Read above to find out more about dirty terrariums and water.

Reptiles and other amphibians can carry disease and pass it on to other reptiles/amphibians. If you do have a sick frog, immediately isolate it to a different tank, unless it is in the habitat by itself. Don't move it if it is in the habitat by itself, because transportation is most harmful and stressful to frogs when they're sick.

Cleaning Chemicals:
As I've stated before in many other articles, soap and other chemicals are VERY toxic to frogs! Never ever use soap in your frog's terrarium, and when you're handling frogs, always be sure to rinse your hands to get rid of soap and oils found on your hands.

Wild Insects

Any insect found in your yard or house should never be fed to your frog. These insects are very harmful, and can, in fact, kill your frog. They may carry disease or pesticides that can fatally harm your frog. Also, these insects are much tougher to digest than regular, store-bought insects, since they have been forced to survive outdoors.


Frogs are great little pets to have, and they're rather easy to care for when you get the hang of it. Be sure to do lots of research on the frog you're getting.

Frog Care when You're on Vacation

What to do with your frog when you're away or on vacation is a tricky problem. Many people are squeamish of the live insects frogs love to eat, and therefore aren't as open to caring for your pet while you're away. Finding someone to care for your frog will be easy when you read this article, though!

Who will care for your frog?

1. Ask your local herp or companion animal veterinarian if they petsit animals while their owners are on vacation. Though this is the most expensive option, your frog will probably receive the best care possible here. 
2. If you're looking for something cheaper than a vet to petsit your frog, be sure to look for local pet-sitting businesses. They will probably care for your frog for a cheaper price than the veterinarian. 
3. And if you're looking for free pet-sitting and some basic care, you can always ask your neighbors, friends, and close family to care for your frog while you're away. Remember, however, than unless your relatives and friends are informed about frogs, your frog will definitely NOT get the top-notch care it would receive in a vet's office. 
4. Another option that most people don't use is taking your pet with you on vacation. At most pet stores, you can find transportable cages and plastic habitats to easily transport your frog in. This is like setting up another terrarium, though, and is NOT the most easy way to care for your frog while on vacation. 

Keep in mind that people might be more willing to care for your frog while you're away if you offer to pay them for taking care of your frog.

Before letting friends, neighbors, or relatives take care of your frog, you will need to show them exactly what's supposed to be done. They will need to change water daily, feed at least every other day, turn light on and off daily, and mist with water daily.

Always make sure your frog gets the best possible care while you're away on vacation.  

Is a Frog Right for You?

Before buying a frog, you need to read this article to find out if a frog is the right pet for you. Frogs are somewhat of a commitment, so you need to be prepared.

1. Frogs require money.

Before ever getting a pet that you probably can't return to the pet store, you need to make sure you are willing to pay the bills for it. Caring for and owning frogs can get rather expensive, so you need to be very sure you are ready to pay for everything. Here is a list of the basics you will need to pay for:

• The frog itself -- frogs can range in price from $6 to $30 and up
• The correct habitat -- don't purchase an inexpensive habitat that your new pet won't be happy in. A good rule to go by: 5 gallons per inch of frog.
• Terrarium decor -- you will need to purchase trees, stumps, logs, water dishes, food dishes, etc.
• Substrate -- since substrate is something that needs to be changed every 1-6 months, you will be continually purchasing new substrate for your frog
• Food -- crickets, mealworms, waxworms, etc. all need to be in your pet frog's diet. They die rather quickly and your frog needs to be fed every two days if not every day, so you will be constantly be purchasing food for your frog
• Lighting -- all frogs need lighting, and you have to purchase lamps to start with, bulbs when they burn out, and have to pay for the electricity powering the light

The items listed above are only the very necessary items in owning a pet frog. Other bills you might have to pay: veterinary bills, medicine bills, bills for vitamin supplements, etc.

         2. Frogs require commitment.

Every day, you will have to check on your frog and provide for its daily needs such as:

• Clean water -- this is one of the most important commitments to owning a frog. Frogs can get fatally sick from dirty water. You will have to change your frog's water daily, unless you own an aquatic frog. Then change the water weekly.
• Fresh food -- every day, your pet needs to eat. Along with each meal, you should include a complete vitamin supplement. Read my article: Frogs' Vitamins and Nutrients for more information.
• Monthly cleanings -- remember to clean out your frog's habitat monthly, if not sooner. Change the substrate and run everything under hot water. Read my complete article: Cleaning your Frog's Terrarium.
• You need to be checking your frog every day for any signs of illness or discomfort. At the first sign of any sickness, immediately consult your veterinarian.

If you are willing and able to provide all of your pet frog's needs, you are ready to own your own pet frog! Don't let any of this information scare you off from owning frogs, however. Frogs are quite easy to care for once you get the hang of it.

Your Frog's Habitat - The Terrestrial Habitat

The terrestrial habitat is for frogs that naturally enjoy a drier climate. This type of habitat is not good for tree frogs, or any humidity-loving amphibian.

This habitat has usually a dry substrate that does not hold moisture well, like sand. You can cover the sand in moss for a more natural look, and moss helps retain moisture. In this habitat you will also need some sticks, logs, a water source (a pool or bowl) and a few artificial plants. Frogs do not do well in a desert-like climate, and a small level of humidity should be maintained.

The lighting for a terrestrial habitat should be just like any other frog's habitat. A heat lamp with a dimmer should be provided and the light should be kept on between 10-13 hours a day. Lighting rules to live by with amphibians:

• Never provide lighting that is too bright and could damage your frog's vision. A 40 watt bulb with a dimmer lamp is ideal.
• Never have the heat lamp IN THE HABITAT. Obviously, the frog could jump onto the bulb and cause serious injuries to himself. Always leave the lamp on a well-ventilated lid, where the frog cannot get to it.
• Your frog should always have some direct sunlight every day; at least 30 minutes to 1 hour. Sunlight provides frogs with Vitamin D3, which helps frogs digest calcium. To find out more, be sure to read my Frogs' Vitamins and Nutrients article.
• Just like in the wild, frogs need a period of undisturbed darkness. This is easily achieved by turning off their lights at night and leaving the terrarium undisturbed.

A good idea is to check on your frog a few times a day to make sure the temperature and humidity levels suit him perfectly. If the temperature is too high, turn the dimmer down on the heat lamp. If the humidity is too low, spray the terrarium with a squirt bottle and fresh water until it reaches the ideal humidity percentage. It's important to keep your frog's humidity in the ideal range, because frogs usually WILL NOT go take a swim in the water bowl if they overheat. They depend on you to keep them wet.

Fresh water should always be kept in the terrarium and cleaned out every day, even if frogs don't go to their bowls when they overheat.

Common Species of Frogs

There are hundreds of species of frogs for you to choose from. In this article, you will be able to see some of the more common species of frogs. This article is especially helpful if you're choosing your first frog.

African Bullfrog
The african bullfrog is also known as the pixie frog (due to its Latin name). This frog is known to eat voraciously and its diet includes: insects, small birds, small reptiles, small rodents and other amphibians. These frogs emit a loud croaking sound and is not a great frog for beginners, despite its cute name. These frogs can bite and can also blow up into a large balloon shape when frightened.

African Clawed Frog
These aquatic frogs have large back webbed feet and clawed front ones. They like warm, quiet waters and usually will feed on a variety of fish. They are scavengers and their aquarium needs to be kept clean. They can grow up to 5 inches in length and have a flattened head and body. They can range from a gray brown to a marbled color. Do not put these frogs in with any kind of fish.

African Dwarf Frog
These aquatic frogs need a roomy aquarium with 1-2 inches of space at the top. They breathe oxygen from the air, not the water and have lungs instead of gills. Their diet consists mostly of frozen bloodworms but variety is good in any frog's diet. These frogs are also scavengers and will eat anything living, dying or dead. Obviously these frogs SHOULD NOT be kept with fish of any kind. These frogs like to be kept with one or more of their kind due to their social nature. They have four webbed feet with small claws that will wear off on the rough pebbles at the bottom of an aquarium.

Bubble Frog
This frog is also known as the Rice Frog, Chubby Frog, Painted Frog and Asian Bullfrog. They like a terrarium with plenty of shelter and hiding places. They usually grow up to 7-8 centimeters. These frogs eat voraciously and their diet can include, but is not limited to: insects, worms, etc. These frogs are also known to croak loudly. Do not handle these frogs often as they secrete a glue-like slime that is hard to wash off.

Dart Frogs
These frogs are only for the experienced amphibian owner. They are small, colorful and vibrant frogs who need extremely small insects: baby crickets, fruit flies, meadow plankton, etc. Usually these poison dart frogs lose a lot, if not all of their poison when in captivity due to the foods they are fed. It is said that they get their poison from an ant they eat in the wild. Some dart frogs can live up to 15 years in captivity, though it's rare. Handling of these frogs should be completely avoided if possible.

Dumpy Tree Frog
These frogs are extremely cute, chubby, great for the beginner amphibian owner and love to be held. Also known as the White's Tree Frog and the Blue Bumpy Tree Frog. These frogs should have a large, tall terrarium. Dumpy tree frogs are nocturnal (they're active only at night unless recently disturbed) and usually will not come out in the day. These little guys eat voraciously and are very easy to overfeed. They're also very hardy to illness.

Firebelly Toads
The firebelly (or firebellied) toad require a little more work than other frogs, but they are good for the beginner amphibian owner. They usually don't grow any longer than 1.5 inches. The toad got its name from the red or yellow and black coloring on  its belly. These colorings warn predators off and remind them of the terrible taste of the firebellied toad. It is rather risky to house these toads with any other species of amphibians, since the toad secretes toxins from glands on the backside of its head. Also, firebellied toads can be very aggressive with other male firebellies.

Gray Tree Frog
These frogs can change colors from a light green to gray, depending on their mood and surroundings. They are medium in size and are great climbers. These tree frogs, like all tree frogs, need an arboreal habitat. They eat crickets, flies, mealworms and waxworms. Males sing or croak during the night to attract females.

Green Frog
These frogs have a very large tympanum, or ear. The tympanum is the circle right behind the eye of the frog. This frog needs a warm, humid climate with warm water and some real plants, if available. Real plants help hold in humidity and warmth. These frogs tend to stay near water, but some can be found inland. They eat small insects and tadpoles.

Green Tree Frog
This is a smaller specie of frogs that only grow up to be about 2.5 inches at most. They can change colors, like the dumpy frogs, from a dark olive green to bright lime green. They have a cream colored stripe running from their jaw to the tips of their legs. Some specimens do not have this stripe, but the more common ones do. These frogs are extremely quick and agile and for the intermediate amphibian owner. These frogs will eat small crickets and mealworms. Waxworms and other insects are too large.

Gold Frog
The Gold frog is the smallest frog in the Southern Hemisphere. They only grow up to about 1 centimeter in length, with the legs tucked in. These frogs, obviously, do not require a huge habitat due to their minute size. Provide lots of plants, logs, etc. for the frog to hide in and explore.

Leopard Frog
These frogs are slender and have a stripe very similar to the green tree frog. Its diet is mainly crickets, and a half and half habitat is ideal for this type of frog. These frogs like to hibernate for about 3 months.

Pacman Frog
AKA the Argentinan Horned Frog, the Bell Frog and also the Ornate Frog. These frogs have huge mouths, and some say this is where their name comes from. These frogs like a half-and-half habitat. Provide a small terrarium with rocks, a large pool, substrate and some artificial plants and the pacman frog will be happy. Their diet consists mostly of small fish, large bugs and mice. Not a great choice for the beginner amphibian owner. These also aren't a great pet if you're looking for an active frog. These frogs are diurnal, but they don't move around much.

Red Eyed Tree Frog
These are probably one of the most common types of frogs due to their beautiful variety of color. They have blue, green, yellow, red and orange on them. These frogs need a tall arboreal terrarium with the humidity kept between 80% - 100%. Some say these frogs are known to eat other smaller frogs as well as crickets. These frogs are extremely mellow and calm - great for beginners. Their red eyes help them to see in the dark (they're nocturnal) and hunt for dinner!

Tomato Frog
These are pretty large frogs - almost as large as a person's fist. The females are bigger than the males and can reach 3-4 inches in body length. They range from orange-red to dark red, hence the name "tomato" frog. As the frog grows, the color becomes brighter. These frogs need a soft, comfortable substrate to burrow into. Moss is ideal. These frogs will eat crickets, waxworms and pinkie mice. When frightened, these frogs can blow up like a balloon.

White's Tree Frogs
The White's tree frog is one of the cutest tree frogs out there. They have glossy green skin that can change from a very light green to a blue-ish teal. These frogs are very hardy and are also known as the Dumpy Tree Frog (see the above description) or Smiling Frog. They can also grow up to 4 inches in length. These tree frogs are nocturnal, not active during the day. Some aren't active at night, either, due to overfeeding. These little guys love to be held, but not overly so. The White's Tree Frog is a great pet for the beginner. These frogs will eat anything from mealworms to pinkie mice. They're quite easy to overfeed. Their habitat should be somewhat like the arboreal habitat, tall and with plenty of hiding and sleeping places.

To find out how to house, care for and feed crickets, read my Dealing with Crickets article.
To find more out about habitats and terrariums for your pet frogs, read my Your Frog's Habitat article.

Frogs' Vitamins and Nutrients

All frogs need a generous supply of vitamins and minerals on each serving of food. Crickets, mealworms and any other insects just don't have enough vitamins in them. There are several ways to supplement your frog's meal with plenty of vitamins.

One of the most important vitamins you could ever give a frog is Calcium. Calcium prevents many diseases, one of the most common is Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD). MBD is a very commonly fatal ilness found in frogs that lack proper nutrition that causes frogs' bones to become very weak. Weak bones can lead to broken bones, and broken bones can lead to crippling, even death.

However, it's important to understand that a lack of calcium is not the only reason for MBD in frogs. MBD can also be caused by a disorder of calcium metabolism. Some frogs cannot properly digest calcium, resulting in a disorder of the calcium. Still, all frogs are unable to digest calcium without a proper dosing of vitamin D3.

Frogs don't absorb vitamin D3 that well, either. MBD can also be caused by a lack of vitamin D3. Vitamin D3 and calcium are needed together in order to be properly digested in your frog.

I know this article is supposed to be about vitamins and nutrients, but while we're on the subject of MBD, here's a list of symptoms in young frogs:

• Swollen, flimsy or extremely small legs.
• Lethargy, lack of movement, difficulty hunting, jumping, etc.
• Constipation
• Bumps or ridges along the vertebral column or arched spine
• Weakness
• Recession of the lower jaw

In MBD's early stages, it can be very hard to recognize. But as the disease develops, the frog may struggle to eat and drink. MBD affects the skull, which results in recession of the lower jaw, inability of the mouth, or the tongue hanging out and appearing longer. Once the disease is much more fully developed than the list of symptoms above, here is another list of symptoms:

• Twitching of the legs, fingers and toes while active or even while at rest.
• Skinniness
• Paralysis
• Twitching or shakiness at being held
• Extreme malnutrition
• Bone fractures

Metabolic Bone Disease is easy to prevent. Always, always, always use a vitamin supplement on any of your frog's meals. Make sure it includes calcium and vitamin D3. These are two of the most vital vitamins a frog can have. I can't put enough emphasis on this! Other vitamins that your frog should have a small portion of include:

• Vitamin B12
• Vitamin B6
• Folic Acid
• Beta Carotene (vitamin A)
• Niacin
• Biotin
• Ascorbic Acid
• d-Pantothenic Acid
• Thiamine
• Riboflavin

This probably seems like an overwhelming list. Yet it's really simple. There are several ways to achieve all these vitamins and nutrients in one simple meal. I have found that by using the product: Zilla (brand) Food Spray Vitamin Supplement with Beta Carotene my frog is easily able to get a full dose of vitamins every day! You can find it at http://www.petco.com/ or probably at any store that sells crickets and amphibians.
This spray is easier than most powder supplements, because with a powder supplement you have to shake it onto the insects and then hope it doesn't shake back off again. With the vitamin spray, it only has to dry 15 seconds and is ready to give to your frog.
Preventing MBD:Use a vitamin supplement on every one of your frog's meals. Many resources suggest using supplements on every 3-4 meals, but that's not giving your frog enough nutrition.

Taking your Frog to the Vet

When your frog is clearly sick with an illness, most diseases are incurable from home. You can treat some diseases with special chemicals, but they're not all that cheap and take professional care. The best answer is always to take your frog to the veterinarian.

If you know your frog is truly sick (believe me, it's pricy to take your frog to the vet), you will want to give your vet a call. See if the technician over the phone recognizes any of your frog's symptoms after listing them all. Follow their advice, and set up an appointment as soon as possible. If you cannot get your frog to the animal hospital that very day, make your frog as comfortable as possible. My frog is a tree frog, so I doubled the heat and lighting, kept him moist, and checked on him every few hours.

To take your frog to the veterinarian, you will need to be able to transport them in a way that's most comfortable for your frog. Unless you have a small animal keeper, you will need to use a plastic cup with Seran wrap over the top. Secure the wrap with a rubber band and punch plenty of holes in the top of the cup using a toothpick or pencil. Always keep a moistened (not soaking wet) paper towl in the bottom of the cup for a refreshing retreat for your frog.

When choosing the best veterinarian for your frog, you will need to go in the phonebook or online and find out which animal hospital is nearest to you, and which animals they serve. If they don't serve small animals, don't call, because they probably won't be able to help you with your frog.

When handling sick frogs, make sure you read my Handling Frogs article.

Also see my Frog Health and Diseases article. This will give very basic information on frogs' diseases.

Another thing to do to get top-quality amphibian veterinary services is to call the pet store you bought your frog from. Just ask them what they think and if they have any recommendations for a local vet, because pet stores have to take their animals to the vet once in a while, too. I did this and found the most wonderful animal hospital.

Remember, your veterinarian only has so many supplies and resources. Your frog may be incorrectly diagnosed, or may not get diagnosed at all. Do what you can for your frog that will make him more comfortable, including administering faithfully any medications or treatments the vet prescribes. Don't lose heart if your frog does not make it through his illness. My first frog did not, even though I took him to a vet and did all I could for him (read my In Memory of Jungle article).

Housing Crickets

Crickets are an extremely important food in your frog's diet. Many frogs do not get the nutrition they absolutely need from mealworms, since mealworms are almost all exoskeleton, and most frogs aren't interested in waxworms (I know mine sure wasn't!).

Crickets are inexpensive, easy to get, available, and your frog will love them. Frogs are meant to hunt for their food, and they are unable to do that with mealworms and waxworms if they're in a little dish.

In order to keep crickets, you will have to either make or purchase a Kriket Keeper (brand).This little box is a convenient way to house crickets without them going all over the house.

Keep food and moisture in your crickets' home to keep them alive and for extra nutrients for your frog. What the crickets eat, your frog will be eating (in a sense). Feed the crickets things rich in calcium. Also purchase cricket water gel or food from the pet store for an extra supplement boost. However, if you don't want to purchase anything else for the crickets besides a cricket keeper, there is a solution involving things everyone has at home.

You will need to "gutload" your crickets at least 24 hours before feeding them to your frog. In order to gut load crickets, you will need to keep foods high in calcium in their keeper including:

• Spinach. A very calcium rich vegetable that gives calcium, water and food. Great for the frog, too.
• Carrots. These also are very high in calcium.
• Potato chunks
• Oats
• Fresh fruits and other vegetables
• Dog food. I have never tried this, but I have heard that crickets will eat it. Dog food is full of rice, grains and meat that are good for your crickets.
• Apple slices
• Dark, green leafy vegetables
• Bran
• A damp sponge for moisture
• Fish flakes

Remember, what goes into the crickets goes into your frog. If your crickets are gut loaded with calcium and other rich minerals and vitamins, it can prevent many diseases in your frog including MBD (metabollic bone disease). Also, sprinkle the cricket's food with a reptile vitamin calcium supplement.

It is possible to overfeed your crickets. Do not feed your frog dead crickets. Try to keep as much vegetable and fruit in your crickets as possible without killing them off.

Another thing I have noticed as I have lived with crickets is that they seem to be really hungry when you bring them home from the petstore. It seems like they don't get the feast at the petstore that you can give them at home. Before putting your new crickets into the Kricket Keeper, make sure the keeper is clean and has plenty (if not small portions of all) of the food listed above in the keeper. The crickets will all scatter to the different foods, and when it comes time to feed them to your frog, they will have a variety of different nutrients in them.

You might hear that hear that crickets stink, but I have never experienced this, and have been keeping crickets as long as I've been keeping pets. The smaller the cricket, the less the odor, and the quieter the chirps! Also, crickets might escape their keeper once in a while. But once they're out, they're difficult to find (much less put back into the cage!). You have to be willing to live with this if you're going to house crickets.

How many crickets to feed my frog?
This answer changes with every frog. It really depends on how large your frog is, and how big his appetite. For new frogs, try 3 crickets on the first day. If there are no crickets in the habitat the next day, stick with 3 crickets unless your frog seems to be underweight. If there are still crickets jumping around like they own the habitat, wait until they disappear, then try 2 crickets the next feeding.

For small, immature frogs, feed them every day. For adult frogs that are larger and more mature, you should be feeding them 3-5 times a week. This also all depends on how large your frog is and how overweight/underweight he is looking. Frogs (with the White's Tree Frog as an exception) usually will stop eating when they're full and go hunting again when they're hungry. White's Tree Frogs will usually eat until they pop and it's very important not to overfeed them.

In Memory of Jungle

Jungle, my little Blue Bumpy Frog, started acting strangely when I had last cleaned out his habitat. Things started going downhill even farther, and I finally took him in to a veterinarian.

He was diagnosed with Bacterial Septicemia, which is a stomach infection in frogs. They also gave me a medication to administer to him.

Jungle hadn't eaten for a few weeks (really, this proves frogs can go about 2 1/2 weeks without eating) and was starting to lose a lot of weight, especially around his legs. So, I took him in to the vet again. They started me on Metrinidazole, liquid calcium, and Carnivore Care.

Jungle seemed to be doing better... until Friday night, February 25, 2011, when he passed away.

Handling Frogs

When handling frogs, you need to use extreme caution. Frogs are, as may be obvious, very fragile, and can easily be injured by jumping out of your hands, or by you squeezing them too hard.

Before you handle or even touch your frog, make sure you have rinsed your hands thoroughly. Frogs absorb practically everything through their skin. Some salts and oils from our hands can hurt frogs. Sunscreen, insect repellants, lotions, soaps, dirt, germs and other chemicals can irritate the frog's skin badly. Don't use soap before handling your frog. Just rinse your hands and leave them partially moist.

Always, always, always wash your hands with strong antibacterial soap after handling frogs. Frogs can transfer diseases to humans that can be fatal. However, don't let this scare you out of getting a pet froggy! Transfered diseases are not common and the diseases that can be transferred are uncommon, too. Just make it a rule to always rinse before and wash afterwards. If you're extra picky, wear disposable latex free, powder free gloves when handling your frogs. Rinse the gloves before handling the frog, dispose of them after, and then wash your hands. You can't be too careful.

If you know your frog is sick, avoid handling it entirely. You will have to transfer the frog to a different terrarium in order to clean the one it was in. If you are housing any other animals (reptiles or amphibians), do not handle them either, because illnesses between reptiles and amphibians can be contagious to other animals. Keep pets and young children away from the sick frog. Since you will have to transfer your frog if he's sick, there are a few options (besides picking him up with your own hands!).

If your frog is real little, an inch and a half or less, get a plastic spoon. Rinse the plastic spoon (you'll need to dispose of it once you're done). Wear gloves, and reaching into the terrarium, gently scoop your frog up with the spoon. Do it as gently as possible.

Larger frogs are harder; mainly for one reason: they're big and usually harder to hold. You will need a paper plate in this case. Since most all paper plates have a raised edge, you'll need to cut it off so it's easier to scoop up the frog. Wearing gloves, gently push the plate as far under the sick frog as you can.

These two ideas are only for frogs that you know are sick. It's VERY stressful for frogs to be held, touched or handled at all.

Try not to handle frogs unless: 1) you are cleaning their terrarium, or, 2) they are sick and need to be transferred. To handle frogs, what I always do is, using my thumb, pointer finger, and middle finger, put your pointer finger and middle finger on one side of the frog and your thumb on the other side of it. Curl your fingers and GENTLY scoop up the frog, closer to the head than not. Do not press hard, because a little pressure to us is like an earthquake to the frog.

Frogs have very soft bellies that can be easily damaged. Frogs do have bones, but they're small and fragile and, like ours, can be broken. Just a little too much push from your finger might do a lot of damage. Be careful not to squeeze the frog's abdominal area.

Frogs panic when they are going airborne in your hands, and will probably struggle and try to hop away. This is why you hold the frog in this position for as little as possible. You should already have prepared a container or flat surface for the frog to be placed in. The container should be full of about 1/2 inch of water. Some frogs produce toxins while being held, but these toxins need to be replaced. Water does the trick.