Things Harmful to Frogs

Frogs are really delicate little creatures, and there are several things that can harm them, even in captivity. Many of the things that are harmful to frogs you do without ever realizing it. Below is a list of things harmful to frogs and how to prevent them.

Dirty Water:One of the most damaging and harmful things to frogs is dirty water. A frog's water can become dirty by the frog tracking things such as insects and substrate into the water. Frogs' waste can also build up in the water. So, the bottom line is: frogs need fresh water every day. Frogs have breathable skin, and it absorbs water (and anything in the water) like a sponge.
Frogs can become very sick from dirty water. And the water doesn't necessarily have to be dirty. If the frog's water has chemicals, chlorines, etc. in it, those will definitely get into your frog's system and can be fatal. To prevent many long-term illnesses and countless other problems, give your frog dechlorinated, fresh water every day.

To dechlorinate your water, you can purchase some water dechlorinater at any petstore that carries fish supplies. You should always have dechlorinated water on hand. If you are unable to purchase dechlorinater, leave the water out and let it sit before giving it to your frog for at least 2 days (48 hours). Remember: stale water is always better than fresh water (for a frog, at least).

Rough Handling:As I mentioned above, frogs are very delicate little creatures. Meaning, you can hurt them without even realizing it. Even if you are trying your hardest to be gentle while holding your frog, you should still read my article: Handling Frogs.

Dirty terrarium:Frogs can get several bacterial infections from: 1) Dirty water and 2) Dirty habitats. You need to clean out your frog's terrarium every week (two weeks at most) by rinsing out water dishes and plastic plants. Every 3 (4 weeks at most) weeks, change the frog's bedding and any wooden bark or logs in the habitat. To find out more, read my: Cleaning your Frog's Terrarium article.

Sharp objects:Sharp objects are mostly self-explanatory. Frogs can get scratched and cut, even to the point of bleeding on sharp objects. Sharp objects can be found on plastic plant leaves, wooden logs, or even on the substrate. Good substrates for frogs include: moss, terrarium liners, eco-earth dirt, or coconut fibers. Pebbles are not a good substrate, as they can fatally harm the frog if swallowed. Before allowing your frog into the terrarium, make sure there are no sharp edges that could harm it.

Calcium Deficiency:Calcium is an extremely important part of a frog's diet. Mealworms carry very little except all that exoskeleton (very little meat) and are nearly nutritionless. But they are a nice break from crickets once in a while. However, calcium is useless (from what I've heard) without vitamin D3. In the wild, frogs get vitamin D3 from the sunlight. Frogs need to be provided with: 1) 1 hour a day in full sunlight or 2) a vitamin D3 supplement powder. It is possible to "overdust" with calcium and D3. You need to balance all your frog's meals with each of these. The D3 is no good without the calcium, and the calcium is no good without the D3.

Overheating:As is obvious by the title, overheating is a harmful thing to frogs and can cause death, if not permanent damage. Overheating can be caused by a number of reasons.

1. Without a temperature and humidity guage, it's very hard to tell exactly what the temperature/humidity is inside the frog's habitat, and frogs can be too hot without you knowing it.


2. Too much heat being emitted from the lamp is a huge reason for frogs' overheating. On my frog's habitat, I have a lamp with a dimmer; you can adjust the light and heat being emitted. Also, if the lamp is too close to the frog's habitat, he could burn or overheat next to it.


3. Not having enough humidity in the frog's habitat, especially tree frogs' habitats, also adds to overheating in frogs. The lamp or heat evaporates the mist and water from the habitat, making it dry and hot. If you don't have a humidity guage for your frog's habitat, you should purchase on at the local petstore. Frogs need the humidity to be between 70% and 80%.


4. No water in water bowl. I know this sounds like a completely irrelevant reason, but like I mentioned before, the heat evaporates water, and quickly lowers the level of water in the frog's water bowl.

Disease:
Obviously! Disease is the largest factor for frog's death and is extremely harmful to frogs. Disease can be caused by dirty water, dirty terrarium, or other sick reptiles and amphibians. Fresh water for frogs every day is a MUST. Read above to find out more about dirty terrariums and water.

Reptiles and other amphibians can carry disease and pass it on to other reptiles/amphibians. If you do have a sick frog, immediately isolate it to a different tank, unless it is in the habitat by itself. Don't move it if it is in the habitat by itself, because transportation is most harmful and stressful to frogs when they're sick.

Cleaning Chemicals:
As I've stated before in many other articles, soap and other chemicals are VERY toxic to frogs! Never ever use soap in your frog's terrarium, and when you're handling frogs, always be sure to rinse your hands to get rid of soap and oils found on your hands.

Wild Insects

Any insect found in your yard or house should never be fed to your frog. These insects are very harmful, and can, in fact, kill your frog. They may carry disease or pesticides that can fatally harm your frog. Also, these insects are much tougher to digest than regular, store-bought insects, since they have been forced to survive outdoors.


Frogs are great little pets to have, and they're rather easy to care for when you get the hang of it. Be sure to do lots of research on the frog you're getting.

Frog Care when You're on Vacation

What to do with your frog when you're away or on vacation is a tricky problem. Many people are squeamish of the live insects frogs love to eat, and therefore aren't as open to caring for your pet while you're away. Finding someone to care for your frog will be easy when you read this article, though!

Who will care for your frog?

1. Ask your local herp or companion animal veterinarian if they petsit animals while their owners are on vacation. Though this is the most expensive option, your frog will probably receive the best care possible here. 
2. If you're looking for something cheaper than a vet to petsit your frog, be sure to look for local pet-sitting businesses. They will probably care for your frog for a cheaper price than the veterinarian. 
3. And if you're looking for free pet-sitting and some basic care, you can always ask your neighbors, friends, and close family to care for your frog while you're away. Remember, however, than unless your relatives and friends are informed about frogs, your frog will definitely NOT get the top-notch care it would receive in a vet's office. 
4. Another option that most people don't use is taking your pet with you on vacation. At most pet stores, you can find transportable cages and plastic habitats to easily transport your frog in. This is like setting up another terrarium, though, and is NOT the most easy way to care for your frog while on vacation. 

Keep in mind that people might be more willing to care for your frog while you're away if you offer to pay them for taking care of your frog.

Before letting friends, neighbors, or relatives take care of your frog, you will need to show them exactly what's supposed to be done. They will need to change water daily, feed at least every other day, turn light on and off daily, and mist with water daily.

Always make sure your frog gets the best possible care while you're away on vacation.  

Is a Frog Right for You?

Before buying a frog, you need to read this article to find out if a frog is the right pet for you. Frogs are somewhat of a commitment, so you need to be prepared.

1. Frogs require money.

Before ever getting a pet that you probably can't return to the pet store, you need to make sure you are willing to pay the bills for it. Caring for and owning frogs can get rather expensive, so you need to be very sure you are ready to pay for everything. Here is a list of the basics you will need to pay for:

• The frog itself -- frogs can range in price from $6 to $30 and up
• The correct habitat -- don't purchase an inexpensive habitat that your new pet won't be happy in. A good rule to go by: 5 gallons per inch of frog.
• Terrarium decor -- you will need to purchase trees, stumps, logs, water dishes, food dishes, etc.
• Substrate -- since substrate is something that needs to be changed every 1-6 months, you will be continually purchasing new substrate for your frog
• Food -- crickets, mealworms, waxworms, etc. all need to be in your pet frog's diet. They die rather quickly and your frog needs to be fed every two days if not every day, so you will be constantly be purchasing food for your frog
• Lighting -- all frogs need lighting, and you have to purchase lamps to start with, bulbs when they burn out, and have to pay for the electricity powering the light

The items listed above are only the very necessary items in owning a pet frog. Other bills you might have to pay: veterinary bills, medicine bills, bills for vitamin supplements, etc.

         2. Frogs require commitment.

Every day, you will have to check on your frog and provide for its daily needs such as:

• Clean water -- this is one of the most important commitments to owning a frog. Frogs can get fatally sick from dirty water. You will have to change your frog's water daily, unless you own an aquatic frog. Then change the water weekly.
• Fresh food -- every day, your pet needs to eat. Along with each meal, you should include a complete vitamin supplement. Read my article: Frogs' Vitamins and Nutrients for more information.
• Monthly cleanings -- remember to clean out your frog's habitat monthly, if not sooner. Change the substrate and run everything under hot water. Read my complete article: Cleaning your Frog's Terrarium.
• You need to be checking your frog every day for any signs of illness or discomfort. At the first sign of any sickness, immediately consult your veterinarian.

If you are willing and able to provide all of your pet frog's needs, you are ready to own your own pet frog! Don't let any of this information scare you off from owning frogs, however. Frogs are quite easy to care for once you get the hang of it.

Your Frog's Habitat - The Terrestrial Habitat

The terrestrial habitat is for frogs that naturally enjoy a drier climate. This type of habitat is not good for tree frogs, or any humidity-loving amphibian.

This habitat has usually a dry substrate that does not hold moisture well, like sand. You can cover the sand in moss for a more natural look, and moss helps retain moisture. In this habitat you will also need some sticks, logs, a water source (a pool or bowl) and a few artificial plants. Frogs do not do well in a desert-like climate, and a small level of humidity should be maintained.

The lighting for a terrestrial habitat should be just like any other frog's habitat. A heat lamp with a dimmer should be provided and the light should be kept on between 10-13 hours a day. Lighting rules to live by with amphibians:

• Never provide lighting that is too bright and could damage your frog's vision. A 40 watt bulb with a dimmer lamp is ideal.
• Never have the heat lamp IN THE HABITAT. Obviously, the frog could jump onto the bulb and cause serious injuries to himself. Always leave the lamp on a well-ventilated lid, where the frog cannot get to it.
• Your frog should always have some direct sunlight every day; at least 30 minutes to 1 hour. Sunlight provides frogs with Vitamin D3, which helps frogs digest calcium. To find out more, be sure to read my Frogs' Vitamins and Nutrients article.
• Just like in the wild, frogs need a period of undisturbed darkness. This is easily achieved by turning off their lights at night and leaving the terrarium undisturbed.

A good idea is to check on your frog a few times a day to make sure the temperature and humidity levels suit him perfectly. If the temperature is too high, turn the dimmer down on the heat lamp. If the humidity is too low, spray the terrarium with a squirt bottle and fresh water until it reaches the ideal humidity percentage. It's important to keep your frog's humidity in the ideal range, because frogs usually WILL NOT go take a swim in the water bowl if they overheat. They depend on you to keep them wet.

Fresh water should always be kept in the terrarium and cleaned out every day, even if frogs don't go to their bowls when they overheat.

Common Species of Frogs

There are hundreds of species of frogs for you to choose from. In this article, you will be able to see some of the more common species of frogs. This article is especially helpful if you're choosing your first frog.

African Bullfrog
The african bullfrog is also known as the pixie frog (due to its Latin name). This frog is known to eat voraciously and its diet includes: insects, small birds, small reptiles, small rodents and other amphibians. These frogs emit a loud croaking sound and is not a great frog for beginners, despite its cute name. These frogs can bite and can also blow up into a large balloon shape when frightened.

African Clawed Frog
These aquatic frogs have large back webbed feet and clawed front ones. They like warm, quiet waters and usually will feed on a variety of fish. They are scavengers and their aquarium needs to be kept clean. They can grow up to 5 inches in length and have a flattened head and body. They can range from a gray brown to a marbled color. Do not put these frogs in with any kind of fish.

African Dwarf Frog
These aquatic frogs need a roomy aquarium with 1-2 inches of space at the top. They breathe oxygen from the air, not the water and have lungs instead of gills. Their diet consists mostly of frozen bloodworms but variety is good in any frog's diet. These frogs are also scavengers and will eat anything living, dying or dead. Obviously these frogs SHOULD NOT be kept with fish of any kind. These frogs like to be kept with one or more of their kind due to their social nature. They have four webbed feet with small claws that will wear off on the rough pebbles at the bottom of an aquarium.

Bubble Frog
This frog is also known as the Rice Frog, Chubby Frog, Painted Frog and Asian Bullfrog. They like a terrarium with plenty of shelter and hiding places. They usually grow up to 7-8 centimeters. These frogs eat voraciously and their diet can include, but is not limited to: insects, worms, etc. These frogs are also known to croak loudly. Do not handle these frogs often as they secrete a glue-like slime that is hard to wash off.

Dart Frogs
These frogs are only for the experienced amphibian owner. They are small, colorful and vibrant frogs who need extremely small insects: baby crickets, fruit flies, meadow plankton, etc. Usually these poison dart frogs lose a lot, if not all of their poison when in captivity due to the foods they are fed. It is said that they get their poison from an ant they eat in the wild. Some dart frogs can live up to 15 years in captivity, though it's rare. Handling of these frogs should be completely avoided if possible.

Dumpy Tree Frog
These frogs are extremely cute, chubby, great for the beginner amphibian owner and love to be held. Also known as the White's Tree Frog and the Blue Bumpy Tree Frog. These frogs should have a large, tall terrarium. Dumpy tree frogs are nocturnal (they're active only at night unless recently disturbed) and usually will not come out in the day. These little guys eat voraciously and are very easy to overfeed. They're also very hardy to illness.

Firebelly Toads
The firebelly (or firebellied) toad require a little more work than other frogs, but they are good for the beginner amphibian owner. They usually don't grow any longer than 1.5 inches. The toad got its name from the red or yellow and black coloring on  its belly. These colorings warn predators off and remind them of the terrible taste of the firebellied toad. It is rather risky to house these toads with any other species of amphibians, since the toad secretes toxins from glands on the backside of its head. Also, firebellied toads can be very aggressive with other male firebellies.

Gray Tree Frog
These frogs can change colors from a light green to gray, depending on their mood and surroundings. They are medium in size and are great climbers. These tree frogs, like all tree frogs, need an arboreal habitat. They eat crickets, flies, mealworms and waxworms. Males sing or croak during the night to attract females.

Green Frog
These frogs have a very large tympanum, or ear. The tympanum is the circle right behind the eye of the frog. This frog needs a warm, humid climate with warm water and some real plants, if available. Real plants help hold in humidity and warmth. These frogs tend to stay near water, but some can be found inland. They eat small insects and tadpoles.

Green Tree Frog
This is a smaller specie of frogs that only grow up to be about 2.5 inches at most. They can change colors, like the dumpy frogs, from a dark olive green to bright lime green. They have a cream colored stripe running from their jaw to the tips of their legs. Some specimens do not have this stripe, but the more common ones do. These frogs are extremely quick and agile and for the intermediate amphibian owner. These frogs will eat small crickets and mealworms. Waxworms and other insects are too large.

Gold Frog
The Gold frog is the smallest frog in the Southern Hemisphere. They only grow up to about 1 centimeter in length, with the legs tucked in. These frogs, obviously, do not require a huge habitat due to their minute size. Provide lots of plants, logs, etc. for the frog to hide in and explore.

Leopard Frog
These frogs are slender and have a stripe very similar to the green tree frog. Its diet is mainly crickets, and a half and half habitat is ideal for this type of frog. These frogs like to hibernate for about 3 months.

Pacman Frog
AKA the Argentinan Horned Frog, the Bell Frog and also the Ornate Frog. These frogs have huge mouths, and some say this is where their name comes from. These frogs like a half-and-half habitat. Provide a small terrarium with rocks, a large pool, substrate and some artificial plants and the pacman frog will be happy. Their diet consists mostly of small fish, large bugs and mice. Not a great choice for the beginner amphibian owner. These also aren't a great pet if you're looking for an active frog. These frogs are diurnal, but they don't move around much.

Red Eyed Tree Frog
These are probably one of the most common types of frogs due to their beautiful variety of color. They have blue, green, yellow, red and orange on them. These frogs need a tall arboreal terrarium with the humidity kept between 80% - 100%. Some say these frogs are known to eat other smaller frogs as well as crickets. These frogs are extremely mellow and calm - great for beginners. Their red eyes help them to see in the dark (they're nocturnal) and hunt for dinner!

Tomato Frog
These are pretty large frogs - almost as large as a person's fist. The females are bigger than the males and can reach 3-4 inches in body length. They range from orange-red to dark red, hence the name "tomato" frog. As the frog grows, the color becomes brighter. These frogs need a soft, comfortable substrate to burrow into. Moss is ideal. These frogs will eat crickets, waxworms and pinkie mice. When frightened, these frogs can blow up like a balloon.

White's Tree Frogs
The White's tree frog is one of the cutest tree frogs out there. They have glossy green skin that can change from a very light green to a blue-ish teal. These frogs are very hardy and are also known as the Dumpy Tree Frog (see the above description) or Smiling Frog. They can also grow up to 4 inches in length. These tree frogs are nocturnal, not active during the day. Some aren't active at night, either, due to overfeeding. These little guys love to be held, but not overly so. The White's Tree Frog is a great pet for the beginner. These frogs will eat anything from mealworms to pinkie mice. They're quite easy to overfeed. Their habitat should be somewhat like the arboreal habitat, tall and with plenty of hiding and sleeping places.

To find out how to house, care for and feed crickets, read my Dealing with Crickets article.
To find more out about habitats and terrariums for your pet frogs, read my Your Frog's Habitat article.

Frogs' Vitamins and Nutrients

All frogs need a generous supply of vitamins and minerals on each serving of food. Crickets, mealworms and any other insects just don't have enough vitamins in them. There are several ways to supplement your frog's meal with plenty of vitamins.

One of the most important vitamins you could ever give a frog is Calcium. Calcium prevents many diseases, one of the most common is Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD). MBD is a very commonly fatal ilness found in frogs that lack proper nutrition that causes frogs' bones to become very weak. Weak bones can lead to broken bones, and broken bones can lead to crippling, even death.

However, it's important to understand that a lack of calcium is not the only reason for MBD in frogs. MBD can also be caused by a disorder of calcium metabolism. Some frogs cannot properly digest calcium, resulting in a disorder of the calcium. Still, all frogs are unable to digest calcium without a proper dosing of vitamin D3.

Frogs don't absorb vitamin D3 that well, either. MBD can also be caused by a lack of vitamin D3. Vitamin D3 and calcium are needed together in order to be properly digested in your frog.

I know this article is supposed to be about vitamins and nutrients, but while we're on the subject of MBD, here's a list of symptoms in young frogs:

• Swollen, flimsy or extremely small legs.
• Lethargy, lack of movement, difficulty hunting, jumping, etc.
• Constipation
• Bumps or ridges along the vertebral column or arched spine
• Weakness
• Recession of the lower jaw

In MBD's early stages, it can be very hard to recognize. But as the disease develops, the frog may struggle to eat and drink. MBD affects the skull, which results in recession of the lower jaw, inability of the mouth, or the tongue hanging out and appearing longer. Once the disease is much more fully developed than the list of symptoms above, here is another list of symptoms:

• Twitching of the legs, fingers and toes while active or even while at rest.
• Skinniness
• Paralysis
• Twitching or shakiness at being held
• Extreme malnutrition
• Bone fractures

Metabolic Bone Disease is easy to prevent. Always, always, always use a vitamin supplement on any of your frog's meals. Make sure it includes calcium and vitamin D3. These are two of the most vital vitamins a frog can have. I can't put enough emphasis on this! Other vitamins that your frog should have a small portion of include:

• Vitamin B12
• Vitamin B6
• Folic Acid
• Beta Carotene (vitamin A)
• Niacin
• Biotin
• Ascorbic Acid
• d-Pantothenic Acid
• Thiamine
• Riboflavin

This probably seems like an overwhelming list. Yet it's really simple. There are several ways to achieve all these vitamins and nutrients in one simple meal. I have found that by using the product: Zilla (brand) Food Spray Vitamin Supplement with Beta Carotene my frog is easily able to get a full dose of vitamins every day! You can find it at http://www.petco.com/ or probably at any store that sells crickets and amphibians.
This spray is easier than most powder supplements, because with a powder supplement you have to shake it onto the insects and then hope it doesn't shake back off again. With the vitamin spray, it only has to dry 15 seconds and is ready to give to your frog.
Preventing MBD:Use a vitamin supplement on every one of your frog's meals. Many resources suggest using supplements on every 3-4 meals, but that's not giving your frog enough nutrition.

Taking your Frog to the Vet

When your frog is clearly sick with an illness, most diseases are incurable from home. You can treat some diseases with special chemicals, but they're not all that cheap and take professional care. The best answer is always to take your frog to the veterinarian.

If you know your frog is truly sick (believe me, it's pricy to take your frog to the vet), you will want to give your vet a call. See if the technician over the phone recognizes any of your frog's symptoms after listing them all. Follow their advice, and set up an appointment as soon as possible. If you cannot get your frog to the animal hospital that very day, make your frog as comfortable as possible. My frog is a tree frog, so I doubled the heat and lighting, kept him moist, and checked on him every few hours.

To take your frog to the veterinarian, you will need to be able to transport them in a way that's most comfortable for your frog. Unless you have a small animal keeper, you will need to use a plastic cup with Seran wrap over the top. Secure the wrap with a rubber band and punch plenty of holes in the top of the cup using a toothpick or pencil. Always keep a moistened (not soaking wet) paper towl in the bottom of the cup for a refreshing retreat for your frog.

When choosing the best veterinarian for your frog, you will need to go in the phonebook or online and find out which animal hospital is nearest to you, and which animals they serve. If they don't serve small animals, don't call, because they probably won't be able to help you with your frog.

When handling sick frogs, make sure you read my Handling Frogs article.

Also see my Frog Health and Diseases article. This will give very basic information on frogs' diseases.

Another thing to do to get top-quality amphibian veterinary services is to call the pet store you bought your frog from. Just ask them what they think and if they have any recommendations for a local vet, because pet stores have to take their animals to the vet once in a while, too. I did this and found the most wonderful animal hospital.

Remember, your veterinarian only has so many supplies and resources. Your frog may be incorrectly diagnosed, or may not get diagnosed at all. Do what you can for your frog that will make him more comfortable, including administering faithfully any medications or treatments the vet prescribes. Don't lose heart if your frog does not make it through his illness. My first frog did not, even though I took him to a vet and did all I could for him (read my In Memory of Jungle article).

Housing Crickets

Crickets are an extremely important food in your frog's diet. Many frogs do not get the nutrition they absolutely need from mealworms, since mealworms are almost all exoskeleton, and most frogs aren't interested in waxworms (I know mine sure wasn't!).

Crickets are inexpensive, easy to get, available, and your frog will love them. Frogs are meant to hunt for their food, and they are unable to do that with mealworms and waxworms if they're in a little dish.

In order to keep crickets, you will have to either make or purchase a Kriket Keeper (brand).This little box is a convenient way to house crickets without them going all over the house.

Keep food and moisture in your crickets' home to keep them alive and for extra nutrients for your frog. What the crickets eat, your frog will be eating (in a sense). Feed the crickets things rich in calcium. Also purchase cricket water gel or food from the pet store for an extra supplement boost. However, if you don't want to purchase anything else for the crickets besides a cricket keeper, there is a solution involving things everyone has at home.

You will need to "gutload" your crickets at least 24 hours before feeding them to your frog. In order to gut load crickets, you will need to keep foods high in calcium in their keeper including:

• Spinach. A very calcium rich vegetable that gives calcium, water and food. Great for the frog, too.
• Carrots. These also are very high in calcium.
• Potato chunks
• Oats
• Fresh fruits and other vegetables
• Dog food. I have never tried this, but I have heard that crickets will eat it. Dog food is full of rice, grains and meat that are good for your crickets.
• Apple slices
• Dark, green leafy vegetables
• Bran
• A damp sponge for moisture
• Fish flakes

Remember, what goes into the crickets goes into your frog. If your crickets are gut loaded with calcium and other rich minerals and vitamins, it can prevent many diseases in your frog including MBD (metabollic bone disease). Also, sprinkle the cricket's food with a reptile vitamin calcium supplement.

It is possible to overfeed your crickets. Do not feed your frog dead crickets. Try to keep as much vegetable and fruit in your crickets as possible without killing them off.

Another thing I have noticed as I have lived with crickets is that they seem to be really hungry when you bring them home from the petstore. It seems like they don't get the feast at the petstore that you can give them at home. Before putting your new crickets into the Kricket Keeper, make sure the keeper is clean and has plenty (if not small portions of all) of the food listed above in the keeper. The crickets will all scatter to the different foods, and when it comes time to feed them to your frog, they will have a variety of different nutrients in them.

You might hear that hear that crickets stink, but I have never experienced this, and have been keeping crickets as long as I've been keeping pets. The smaller the cricket, the less the odor, and the quieter the chirps! Also, crickets might escape their keeper once in a while. But once they're out, they're difficult to find (much less put back into the cage!). You have to be willing to live with this if you're going to house crickets.

How many crickets to feed my frog?
This answer changes with every frog. It really depends on how large your frog is, and how big his appetite. For new frogs, try 3 crickets on the first day. If there are no crickets in the habitat the next day, stick with 3 crickets unless your frog seems to be underweight. If there are still crickets jumping around like they own the habitat, wait until they disappear, then try 2 crickets the next feeding.

For small, immature frogs, feed them every day. For adult frogs that are larger and more mature, you should be feeding them 3-5 times a week. This also all depends on how large your frog is and how overweight/underweight he is looking. Frogs (with the White's Tree Frog as an exception) usually will stop eating when they're full and go hunting again when they're hungry. White's Tree Frogs will usually eat until they pop and it's very important not to overfeed them.

In Memory of Jungle

Jungle, my little Blue Bumpy Frog, started acting strangely when I had last cleaned out his habitat. Things started going downhill even farther, and I finally took him in to a veterinarian.

He was diagnosed with Bacterial Septicemia, which is a stomach infection in frogs. They also gave me a medication to administer to him.

Jungle hadn't eaten for a few weeks (really, this proves frogs can go about 2 1/2 weeks without eating) and was starting to lose a lot of weight, especially around his legs. So, I took him in to the vet again. They started me on Metrinidazole, liquid calcium, and Carnivore Care.

Jungle seemed to be doing better... until Friday night, February 25, 2011, when he passed away.

Handling Frogs

When handling frogs, you need to use extreme caution. Frogs are, as may be obvious, very fragile, and can easily be injured by jumping out of your hands, or by you squeezing them too hard.

Before you handle or even touch your frog, make sure you have rinsed your hands thoroughly. Frogs absorb practically everything through their skin. Some salts and oils from our hands can hurt frogs. Sunscreen, insect repellants, lotions, soaps, dirt, germs and other chemicals can irritate the frog's skin badly. Don't use soap before handling your frog. Just rinse your hands and leave them partially moist.

Always, always, always wash your hands with strong antibacterial soap after handling frogs. Frogs can transfer diseases to humans that can be fatal. However, don't let this scare you out of getting a pet froggy! Transfered diseases are not common and the diseases that can be transferred are uncommon, too. Just make it a rule to always rinse before and wash afterwards. If you're extra picky, wear disposable latex free, powder free gloves when handling your frogs. Rinse the gloves before handling the frog, dispose of them after, and then wash your hands. You can't be too careful.

If you know your frog is sick, avoid handling it entirely. You will have to transfer the frog to a different terrarium in order to clean the one it was in. If you are housing any other animals (reptiles or amphibians), do not handle them either, because illnesses between reptiles and amphibians can be contagious to other animals. Keep pets and young children away from the sick frog. Since you will have to transfer your frog if he's sick, there are a few options (besides picking him up with your own hands!).

If your frog is real little, an inch and a half or less, get a plastic spoon. Rinse the plastic spoon (you'll need to dispose of it once you're done). Wear gloves, and reaching into the terrarium, gently scoop your frog up with the spoon. Do it as gently as possible.

Larger frogs are harder; mainly for one reason: they're big and usually harder to hold. You will need a paper plate in this case. Since most all paper plates have a raised edge, you'll need to cut it off so it's easier to scoop up the frog. Wearing gloves, gently push the plate as far under the sick frog as you can.

These two ideas are only for frogs that you know are sick. It's VERY stressful for frogs to be held, touched or handled at all.

Try not to handle frogs unless: 1) you are cleaning their terrarium, or, 2) they are sick and need to be transferred. To handle frogs, what I always do is, using my thumb, pointer finger, and middle finger, put your pointer finger and middle finger on one side of the frog and your thumb on the other side of it. Curl your fingers and GENTLY scoop up the frog, closer to the head than not. Do not press hard, because a little pressure to us is like an earthquake to the frog.

Frogs have very soft bellies that can be easily damaged. Frogs do have bones, but they're small and fragile and, like ours, can be broken. Just a little too much push from your finger might do a lot of damage. Be careful not to squeeze the frog's abdominal area.

Frogs panic when they are going airborne in your hands, and will probably struggle and try to hop away. This is why you hold the frog in this position for as little as possible. You should already have prepared a container or flat surface for the frog to be placed in. The container should be full of about 1/2 inch of water. Some frogs produce toxins while being held, but these toxins need to be replaced. Water does the trick.

Setting up your Frog's Terrarium

Before purchasing your frog, you should have the terrarium ready to put him in when you get home. The most common terrariums today are the half water and half land habitat, for semi-aquatic frogs and toads, such as leopard frogs. However, the half and half terrarium is a great choice for any frog. You need to know which frog you're getting so you know which habitat's best for him. To find out more about frog habitats, check my article: Your Frog's Habitat.

When you're choosing the bedding you're going to use for your frog, DO NOT use gravel at all. Frogs can swallow gravel and it can clog their intestines and be fatal.







Things you'll need to setup a frog terrarium:

• Moss, coconut fibers, sand (for frogs who prefer a drier climate), or other bedding
• Water dish
• Food dish (optional; water dish can serve both purposes)
• Logs (for frogs to hide under and climb on)
• Plants (live or plastic)
• Heat lamp
• Thermometer
• Hydrometer (optional, but recommended)
• Terrarium humidifier or squirt bottle
• 5.5 gallon tank (at least; you can use a larger one)
• Large bucket
• Warm water

How to set up a frog terrarium:
Soak the moss block, coconut fiber block or other bedding block you chose in a bucket of warm water. The water to bedding ratio should be 2 to 1. Slosh the bedding around in the bucket and let it sit for 15-20 minutes.

Ring the bedding out leaving about 20% moisture in it. Spread the bedding on the terrarium floor. The bedding needs to be 1.5 to 2 times thicker than the frog it's housing. I strongly suggest using moss in your frog's terrarium. Moss keeps the tank humid and retains moisture. Also, moss adds a natural look to your terrarium.

Make sure that there are no sharp edges on any of plants or logs. Place the logs, plants, water dishes, etc. around the terrarium. Live plants help retain moisture in the terrium along with moss. Arrange the plants so that your frog has plenty of places to hide, hunt and explore.

Place the thermometer and hydrometer where it's easily visible but where your frog can't easily get to it.

Squirt down the terrarium with a squirt bottle (you can buy a humidifier that will automatically mist the aquarium for you, but a squirt bottle's about 1/10 the price!). Set the heat lamp on the terrarium lid (yes, you will need a lid... frogs can climb out of their habitats; the lid needs to be well-ventilated no matter what frog is housed) where your frog CANNOT access it. Frogs will climb up to the heat and can burn themselves if they touch hot heat lamps! Turn on the heat lamp and you're ready to bring your new frog home.

Things to remember:

To prevent your bedding from rotting, squirt the terrarium 2-3 times a day generously. Keep the heat lamp on during the day to evaporate any excess moisture that can cause mold to grow. Mold can hurt the frogs... and humans. If you happen to see mold starting to grow in your terrarium, do a thorough cleaning (see my article: Cleaning your frog's Terrarium) and remove all bedding, live plants, logs, etc and get rid of them.

In the case of mold, warm water (as suggested in my article) won't work. It will only spread the mold spores around. What you need to purchase is a chemical that can be found at almost any Petco or Petsmart. It's called WipeOut by the Zoo Med brand. It's a deodorizer and disinfectant that works great for problems like this, but will harm your frog if you let it touch him. When you use this chemical, remove everything from the terrarium and use generously. Then do a thorough warm water wash over your entire terrarium.

Mold can be caused by not having enough ventilation in your frog's habitat, or by having too much moisture and humidity.

Cleaning your frog's Terrarium

Cleaning your frog's terrarium is not always the most pleasant task but is necessary and well worth the effort (if you're looking for a healthy and happy frog!). In this article, you will find out what you need in order to clean a frog terrarium and what the necessary steps are.

In order to clean out the terrarium thoroughly, you will need to transfer the frog to another place that he can't get out of. Never ever use soap or any other kind of chemical (such as Windex or Lysol for example) when cleaning the frog terrarium.

Before you start cleaning, prepare a plastic cup with seran wrap over the top. If the frog is a small frog, you can use a small cup without a rubber band to secure the seran wrap. But if you own a larger frog that could plow through the seran wrap, you'll need something other than a plastic cup that he could knock over, such as a large styrofoam bowl (cover it with seran wrap and rubber band, too). Rinse your hands (if you wash them with soap, they could easily irritate your frog's skin) then gently, using the thumb, index finger and middle finger, pick up the frog and place him on the palm of your opposite hand. For large frogs, pick them up using all your fingers either in a scooping motion or a lifting motion. Place them gently in the container.

You can purchase a cleaning chemical from the ZooMed company called Wipe Out. You can use it in cleaning your terrarium by squirting everything (it acts as a deodorizer) but I don't recommend this because frogs absorb everything through their skin.

What you need to clean a frog terrarium:

• Cloth or paper towels
• Warm water

How to clean a frog terrarium:
After picking up your frog and gently placing him in the temporary container, remove all plants (live or plastic) and rinse them with hot water (room temperature if they are live). Run the cloth or paper towel over the leaves, roots, stems and anything else on the plants to remove any frog waste.

Remove all logs, stumps, water dishes, food dishes, bedding (if you are doing a thorough cleaning) etc. and throw out the bedding. Run the water dishes and food dishes under hot water and wipe with the cloth/paper towel. After a few years, logs and wood stumps will start to rot and turn moldy. You will need to replace them when this happens. To preserve your logs/wood stumps, run a damp cloth over them and set them in the sun to dry.

Once everything is removed from the terrarium, wipe out the bottom and sides with a damp cloth. Warm water loosens things up better, but cold will work fine, too. Dry with a paper towel immediately after wiping the inside of the terrarium.

Replace the bedding with new and set up your terrarium with all the plants, dishes, etc. again. Mist it lightly and add your frog back into his home. Then mist the frog.

Things to keep in mind:
The bedding you use in your frog's terrarium will rot and mold much faster the more you mist it. To prevent the bedding from rotting quickly, mist the terrarium only 3 times a day generously. If your frog still seems dry, mist him more often but more sparingly. Also, keep a heat lamp turned on during the day to help evaporate any excess moisture that can cause mold to grow. Turn the lamp off during the night, especially if your frog is nocturnal.

The Frog's Life Cycle

When frogs lay eggs, they can lay thousands at a time. Sadly, usually more than half of the eggs are eaten before becoming adults. Even once the eggs are hatched, the young, unexperienced tadpole faces many dangers. Frogs usually lay eggs in masses (called the frog spawn), but toads lay them in long chains.

The cell in the egg splits in two, then four, then eight and so on until it begins to look more and more like a tadpole floating around inside the egg. The mass of cells begins to form and embryo. Gills and organs start to grow. The eggs usually take 6-21 days to hatch for the average frog.

After developing for 21 days (living off the yolk in the egg), the egg hatches and the tadpole attaches himself to a weed in the water (for most frogs, not all). Then, the tadpoles grow until they are large enough to break free into the water, and this can take from 3-21 days. The tadpole really only consists of a gill, some organs, a mouth and a tail. He is very sensitive at this point and prone to many dangers. The tadpole feeds on smaller plants in the water.

The gills, at this point, start to get grown over by the skin and tiny teeth that grind food and turn it into oxygenated particles form.

After a while, little legs and arms start to pop out of the tadpole's skin and the head becomes more distinct. The little body grows longer. Lungs begin to develop, which prepares the baby frog for his life on the land. By this time, the tadpole looks like a frog with a long tail.

The frog starts to shed his skin and lips. Their mouths widen, and they lose their teeth. The tail grows much smaller. Tadpoles will not eat while their tail is shortening, because they get all the nutrients they need from the tail.

After a strenuous 11-16 weeks, the frog is now an adult ready to lay eggs and start the process over. The tail is either a tiny stub or gone completely. The frog has all it needs to survive on land.

(Click on the image to enlarge it.)

Frog FAQs

There are many frequently asked questions about frogs. There are so many, in fact, that there isn't enough room on my blog to cover all of them! However, I will cover the most common ones. If you have any FAQs about frogs, feel free to leave a comment about it (I check regularly!).

What should I feed my frogs?
Many frogs eat live insects, but some eat dead ones. Frogs will eat mealworms, crickets, waxworms and grasshoppers.

What should I do if my frog won't eat?
If you feed your frog live food, it's very possible that your frog is eating, but you just aren't seeing it. However, if you're positive that your frog won't eat, he is probably indicating an illness. When the frog recovers, the appetite returns. You can try to hand-feed your frog or force-feeding him if he won't eat. This can be done by putting your thumb on the top of the frog's head and the index finger under his mouth. Gently pry open his mouth using a Q-tip, then clamp his mouth around it. With a pair of tweezers, grab an insect and gently open the frog's mouth again. Pull the Q-tip out (you may have to set down the tweezers) and put the worm in. The frog should swallow it. Remember, this procedure should only happen if you're absolutely desperate to feed your frog! Frogs DON'T like to be handled. In case your frog is sick, always rinse your hands before and wash them afterwards!

How long do frogs live?
This depends on the type of frog you own and how well he has been cared for. If you are lax in cleaning his tank and caring for him, chances are that he probably won't live a very long life. A well-cared-for frog will probably live longer than one who is ignored.

Do frogs shed?
Yes, all frogs shed (even aquatic ones)! Frogs can look quite alarming when they are shedding...but don't panic! They look like they are bloating, coughing, stretching, sneezing and trying to take off an invisible sweater. In spite of this, they are only trying to stretch out of their old skin. Sometimes shedding is confused with skin disease, but shedding is a natural occurence that happens every week for some frogs and every day for others. And when the shedding is done, the frog usually eats his old skin.

How do I tell which frog I've got?
If you purchased your frog from the petstore, you should already know what frog you have. But... if you caught your frog from your local pond or backyard, it's nearly impossible to determine which specie of frog you have (since there are about 5,000 different species of frogs).

Is my frog male or female?
Determining if your frog is male or female can be challenging, since there are many different types of frogs that share common characteristics. Males are typically smaller than female frogs and have a darker skin tone. Also, if your frog croaks, sings or blurps during the night, he is most likely a male, although there are some female species that do this. And, if your frog's ears are smaller than his eyes, it is most likely a female, but there are a few male frogs that have small ears.

Can I release my non-native pet frog free?
If your frog is not native to where you live, do not release him into the wild. In an unfamiliar habitat, a frog can panic; also the food supply could be different than what he would receive in his natural habitat. The climate could be different from what he is used to. Also, native frogs are much hardier than captive bred and owned frogs. Non-native frogs most likely won't find shelter and food that they're used to in an unfamiliar habitat.

Is my frog sick?
Determining if your frog is sick is risky business! Many diseases can be confused with the natural colors and occurences of frogs (such as red leg and skin disease). Some diseases' symptoms are easier to see than others. If your frog is sick, he will probably let you know by his colors, activity and appearance. If you notice anything wrong with your frog, call the vet or the petstore that you bought him from to see if they can diagnose the disease.

What do I do if my frog is sick?
Don't panic. Once frogs are sick, they are usually very hard to cure, but it is possible. You will need the proper kind of medicine and you must be very sure of what your frog is sick with. If your frog is sick, do not let him come in contact with any other frogs. ALWAYS wear disposable gloves when handling a sick frog. Some frog diseases can be transferred to humans, and although not common, can be fatal. Wash your hands thoroughly before and especially afterwards. Make sure the terrarium that he is staying in is absolutely clean.

How should I set up my frog terrarium?
You'll need at least a 2 gallon terrarium and some bedding (moss, alfalfa leaves, wood shavings, etc. Don't use small pebbles or something that can harm the frog if swallowed). Also, have a food dish and water dish prepared. You will need a heat lamp unless you keep the room your frog is staying in between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. If your frog is a tree frog, provide lots of climbing plants, sticks, logs and vines for him to climb up. Frogs should always have some sort of way to get closer to the heat lamp. Don't put the heat lamp in a location where your frog can touch it. Heat lamps will get very hot and can burn the frog's skin.

Frogs are Insectivores

Many frogs are insectivores, meaning they eat living insects. Many people will not own frogs because they are insectivores and they eat live insects. However, not all frogs eat live insects. There are a few that don't eat live insects, such as the African Clawed Frog and the African Dwarf Frog.

Tree frogs that need to eat live insects can eat mealworms, waxworms, crickets and red wigglers. If you would like to own a frog that doesn't need to eat live insects, you can purchase freeze-dried crickets, mealworms and brine shrimp at the petstore in the reptile/amphibian section.

When feeding your frog, you need to have lots of variety in the frog's diet. I own a Blue Bumpy (aka Dumpy) Frog that eats live insects, and I've heard that mealworms are almost nutritionless. Alternate between mealworms and crickets for a balanced diet.

If you are like me, you don't prefer to touch or have to handle live insects of any kind. So here is my suggestion to you. Either purchase a frog that doesn't have to eat live insects, or make this easy insect container that prevents you from touching/handling live insects.

Using a yogurt container (plastic cups work great too), punch holes with a thumbtack in the sides of the top. Make them small enough so that worms/crickets cannot get out/eat their way out, but so they can still breathe. Also punch holes in a strong, tight fitting lid that even a large cricket could not get through.

Cut a large hole in the side of the container near the top. You need to plug this with a cork or rubber stopper so the insects can't get out.

Finally, when you purchase your next batch of insects at the petstore, dump them into the container and store it somewhere warm and dry. When your frog is ready to eat, unplug the cork and sprinkle a few insects in the terrarium through the hole that you cut and plug the hole back up.

Housing Crickets

Crickets need to be kept in someplace like a garage. I have heard that crickets stink, but have never experienced it. I purchase small crickets and keep them in my basement. If your frog is small, purchase small crickets and feed him 2-3 a day. You will also need to purchase gut-loading food for the crickets, such as Fluker's Cricket Calcium Fortified.

If you add this insect food to the container before adding the crickets, it stuffs the crickets' guts full of calcium that is excellent nutrition for your frog. Make sure to add this to the crickets the day before feeding your frog so they have a chance to get "fattened up."

The image to the left is Fluker's Cricket Calcium Fortified Gel. It is not food, however it is water for the crickets. If you don't want to purchase cricket food, crickets will also eat potatoes, carrots and other vegetables. Put a chunk of vegetable in your cricket container.

It is possible to kill off your crickets by overfeeding and overwatering them.

Housing Mealworms
Mealworms are much easier to house than crickets; however, they don't provide your frog with half the nutrition. Mealworms can be stored in the refrigerator where they are put into an induced hibernation. The worms will begin to wake up once they start to warm when taken out of the fridge.

Mealworms, since they can't be gut-loaded like the crickets, need to be sprinkled with calcium dust. You can take a plastic spoon and put some mealworms in a plastic ziplock bag. Add a pinch of calcium and "Shake and Bake" the mealworms.

The calcium on the worms provides the frog with a little more nutrition than he would otherwise get, but I still suggest alternating between crickets and mealworms.

How many insects to feed?
This is probably one of the most common questions ever asked about frogs! What your frog eats and how much he eats depends on the frog alone (what kind of frog he is, what he likes/dislikes). Your best bet is going to be to experiment and see how much your frog will eat.

Start by feeding your frog 3 insects the first time. If he consumes all of these without a problem, you can add 4 insects the next time. If your frog still looks hungry or underfed, boost up the number of insects in his diet. I keep mealworms and crickets at the same time to accommodate what my frog wants to eat (i.e. if he won't eat mealworms, I switch to crickets).

You will know if you're feeding your frog too much if there are still insects crawling around the terrarium 2-3 days after you fed him. And sometimes the frog might have missed a few in his hunts. I feed my frog every two days and it seems to work well.

Raising a Tadpole

Raising a tadpole is fun and easy. There are a few basic rules, but they will all pay off when you see your little baby tadpole turn into a grown frog! Tadpoles can live in plastic cups with seran wrap covering the top until they grow into frogs.

It usually takes eggs 6-12 weeks to hatch into tadpoles. If you happen to get your tadpoles in the winter, don't worry. Tadpoles usually grow slower when it's cold. When tadpoles grow legs, you will need a container where they can climb out of the water to breathe. Otherwise, they will drown.

Clean Water
One of the first and most important things you need to maintain is clean water. Tadpoles thrive in clean water, and, just like any other animal, don't do that well in dirty water. You should clean the water only when it really looks dirty, not just on a regular basis. Otherwise you might stress your tadpole.



Cleaning the Water
Cleaning the water for a tadpole is much easier than cleaning the terrarium for a frog.

• Ziploc bag (make sure it has NO holes)


• Fresh water that is the same temperature of the water your tadpole has been staying in.


• Plastic cup


• Plastic spoon


• Seran wrap

Take some of the dirty water from the tadpole's cup (it needs to be enough to cover your tadpole). Zip the bag shut and pour the dirty water out. Fill a new cup with fresh water and gently pour your tadpole (there will be a little dirty water added to the clean water, but there's not much you can do about it) into the clean cup with fresh water. Cover the cup with seran wrap.

Feeding
Your tadpole will first have to eat lettuce until he is bigger. Then he can start to eat small crickets and fruit flies, and bloodworms later. Tadpoles love lettuce and the best way to feed it to them is to first boil it for ten to fifteen minutes. After you boil it, chop it into tiny pieces and freeze it. Feed your tadpole a pinch of the frozen lettuce every day.

Tadpoles will also eat spinach (prepared the same way as the lettuce), tadpole food or fish flakes. Feed the flakes to the tadpole every other day. When the tadpole starts to grow legs and is able to climb out of his container, you can start feeding it small insects, like fruit flies or gnats, every two days.

Don't overfeed your frog. This enables the water to get dirtier much faster.

Water
When housing your tadpole, never ever use chlorinated or distilled water. Distilled water is sometimes said to have nothing harmful in it. The fact is, it has nothing in it at all, not even good minerals. Use dechlorinated tap water.

Signs of a Healthy Frog

Some frog illnesses' symptoms are easy to see; others are very difficult. You should probably check your frog everyday to make sure all is well.

Signs of a healthy frog:

• Eats like a little piggy. Frog should be very enthusiastic about "feeding time", and should eat as much as he can in 3-5 minutes. Some resources suggest feeding your frog as much as he can eat in fifteen minutes. I don't recommend this. Your frog can eat much more than what's good for him in 15 minutes.
• Frog's skin should be clean and bright, without scratches, lumps, irritations, or dryness. If your frog's skin is dry, you probably need to mist him with lukewarm water.
• The skin on your frog's belly and thighs should not be bright red and/or irritated. This is most definitely a symptom of Red Leg, a common disease found in many frogs. However, do not confuse Red Leg symptoms with the natural colors of some frogs!
• Frog's eyes should be clear, not hazy or cloudy. Hazy and cloudy eyes can indicate an illness.
• Frog's waste shouldn't be runny or have red streaks.
• Frog should be active. Nocturnal frogs (such as the Blue Bumpy Frog) are mostly active during the night.
• Frog should shed at least once a week. Some frogs are known to shed every day.

Signs of an unhealthy frog:

• Frog is lethargic, bloated, uncomfortable or lazy. Lethargy and bloating are symptoms of Dropsy, a frog disease. If you notice that your frog is uncomfortable, he is probably shedding, which is natural. But if your frog is overly uncomfrotable, something might be wrong. And, if your frog is just plain lazy, he could be stressed, depressed, full of food or tired, especially if he is a nocturnal frog.
• Lack of appetite. Cut back on the feedings. If your frog is new, he is probably stressed from being transported and having new surroundings. You might want to try a variety in his diet. He may be tired of eating the same old thing.
• Frog has hazy eyes. This is usually a sign of infection.
• Frog's skin is lumpy, dried, irritated, etc. Frog is probably thirsty. Squirt him down with lukewarm water. However, if your frog's skin is irritated, he is probably indicating an illness.

Dos and Don'ts About Frogs

Frogs are a fairly easy animal to care for, however, they do have likes, dislikes and needs. Here is a basic list that is easy to follow for frogs.


Dos about Frogs:

• Do feed your frog once a day. Some frogs can go every two days, but this is not recommended.
• Do a daily health check of your frog to make sure everything is well.
• Do keep your frog's tank clean to prevent infection and other diseases.
• Do use common sense in when to clean your frog's tank. This is a tricky business, because most frogs are terrified when being transported, and many are afraid of humans. Only clean the frog's tank when it is mildly dirty, not filthy. This can be achieved by cleaning the frog's tank every five days.
• Do keep your frog's tank (it doesn't matter what kind of frog unless it is used to a drier climate or is an aquatic frog) moist and humid. Frogs should be misted at least three times a day, to prevent drying of the skin. Frogs also don't drink water, they soak it up through their skin.
• Do always wash your hands before and after handling your frog. Frogs can come down with illnesses that can easily be transferred to mammals, so keep any pets away from frogs when sick. Also, if your frog is sick, hold him as little as possible. If you must clean the terrarium, use gloves and wash your hands even if wearing gloves. Some frogs can be easily irritated by the salts or oils on our skin and some frogs produce toxins. Washing your hands before and after frog handling is a very critical step in owning a frog.

Don'ts about Frogs:

• Don't ever use chemicals of any kind (windex, soap, etc.) when cleaning your frog's terrarium.
• Don't hold your frog every day! Some frogs are scared by humans, as stated above.
• Don't administer any kind of treatment to a sick frog until you're sure what your frog is sick with! Adding medicine unnecessarily to a frog can be fatal.
• Don't overfeed your frog. Overfeeding frogs is dangerous, and can be fatal.
• Don't use a habitat without a well-ventilated top. Without this, your frog can easily overheat and die.

Remember, by following these simple, common-sense directions, it will help your frog live a long, happy life with you.

Fascinating Frog Facts

You might think you know a lot about frogs... but do you know these fascinating facts about them?

Do frogs have ears? Yes, frogs have ears. Frogs can hear using round ears on the sides of their heads, called tympanums. Tympanum means drum.






Do frogs have teeth? Yes, frogs have teeth, too! Cone-shaped teeth are on the ridge of the frog's upper jaw. These teeth are called maxillary teeth. These teeth are very fragile and are used to grip rather than grind. Also, frogs have teeth on the roofs of their mouths, and these teeth are called vomerine teeth.

Do frogs drink water? Nope, frogs don't drink water. They absorb water through their skin. Also, frogs need more oxygen than their lungs can provide. So, they breathe through their skin, too!

Do frogs have special feet? Yes, frogs' feet have a sticky pad, or suction cup on the end of each toe. These sticky little cups aid frogs in climbing.
Do frogs have different eyes? Yes, frogs eyes vary from one specie to another! The colored part of the eye, called the iris, comes in all different colors: gold, orange, black, brown, green, silver or brown. Frogs' pupils can be all different shapes too, such as: vertical, horizontal, heart-shaped, round or even star-shaped!

Can frogs change colors? Yes, frogs can change colors, just like chameleons! Some frogs that do this are: White's Tree Frog and the Blue Bumpy Frog (I own one of them!). Frogs change colors depending on their moods and to hide themselves from predators.

How long do frogs live? An average frog in captivity lives between 4 and 15 years. A lot depends on the type of frog and how well it has been cared for. If you keep your frog's tank immaculately clean, your frog is bound to have a long and healthy life. Also, what frogs eat and how much nutrience they get in each meal is another factor in how long they will live.

Your Frog's Habitat - The Aquatic Habitat

Your frog will be happiest if he has a habitat that is most like his natural habitat in the wild. The terrarium your frog needs depends on the frog you purchase. There are four main types of terrariums: the aquatic habitat, the terrestrial habitat, the arboreal habitat and the half and half habitat. Read my other articles to find out more about each.

The Aquatic Habitat
The aquatic habitat is identical to a fish aquarium. It should only be used for an aquatic specie of frogs. Some aquatic frogs need oxygen from the air, not the water. Be sure to always allow 1-2 inches of space between the top of the habitat and the water for your frog to breathe.

The size of your habitat depends on what species of frogs you are housing and their sizes. The pet stores will usually tell you about 2 gallons per inch of frog. You can never make the mistake of too large an aquarium since in the wild, frogs have no limits on their space. You need the aquatic habitat that looks comfortable for the frog you are housing.

Your frog's aquatic habitat will need to be cleaned more frequently than a fish aquarium, since frogs shed. Cleaning the aquarium about once a week is acceptable with a thorough filter. Change the filter cartridges once a week. Filters are sized based on the aquarium they will be put in. You can purchase filters for as small as a 1 gallon aquarium and up. Know what size your aquarium is and be sure to provide the proper filter.

Another way to keep the aquatic frog's tank clean is to add goldfish to the mix, because goldfish eat the frog's skin. Still, some aquatic frogs will eat fish (and even other frogs) smaller than themselves (such as the African Dwarf frog and African Clawed frog). Read my article: Common Species of Frogs to find out more about each specie of frogs.

The use of gravel in the frog's aquatic habitat is the most common for most aquariums and is the easiest to maintain. Some frogs are large enough to swallow gravel, and for any specie of frogs this is exactly why I recommend to NEVER use gravel! Use sand, marbles, etc. but never use gravel! I cannot put enough emphasis on this. If a frog swallows gravel, the frog will usually NOT live.

Do not leave aquatic frog aquariums in direct sunlight. Algae and bacteria will thrive in this sort of an environment. However, do allow your aquatic habitat to have some indirect sunlight (about 5 hours a day). If you want to incorporate electric lighting in your aquatic tank, the choice is yours, since aquatic aquatic frogs don't necessarily require lighting. Lighting can help frogs produce vitamin D3 but this vitamin is also found in their diets.

You always, no matter what animal is housed in the terrarium, want to have some sort of cover or lid over the habitat. Frogs can easily jump out of their habitats (all frogs, not just aquatic frogs). Some lids have built in lighting for extra convenience, but if the lid doesn't have good ventilation, don't purchase it. Frogs need a well-ventilated habitat. If you don't want to spend the extra money on a lid (which usually range from $20-$30), you can put some screen over your frog's habitat.

To decorate your aquatic habitat, you can use gravel, plastic and/or live plants and other decor. Give your frog plenty of places to hide and explore. Make sure the gravel and plants (if plastic) are well rinsed to rid them of any dust or dirt. Also, check and see if there are any sharp edges on any of your decor.

To heat your aquatic frog's aquarium, you can purchase an in-the-water heater, or you can use lid lighting. Lighting usually always comes with any aquarium lid.

Be sure to check this blog again soon for posts on the Terrestrial Habitat, the Half-and-Half habitat and the Arboreal Habitat!