Your Frog's Habitat - The Terrestrial Habitat

The terrestrial habitat is for frogs that naturally enjoy a drier climate. This type of habitat is not good for tree frogs, or any humidity-loving amphibian.

This habitat has usually a dry substrate that does not hold moisture well, like sand. You can cover the sand in moss for a more natural look, and moss helps retain moisture. In this habitat you will also need some sticks, logs, a water source (a pool or bowl) and a few artificial plants. Frogs do not do well in a desert-like climate, and a small level of humidity should be maintained.

The lighting for a terrestrial habitat should be just like any other frog's habitat. A heat lamp with a dimmer should be provided and the light should be kept on between 10-13 hours a day. Lighting rules to live by with amphibians:

• Never provide lighting that is too bright and could damage your frog's vision. A 40 watt bulb with a dimmer lamp is ideal.
• Never have the heat lamp IN THE HABITAT. Obviously, the frog could jump onto the bulb and cause serious injuries to himself. Always leave the lamp on a well-ventilated lid, where the frog cannot get to it.
• Your frog should always have some direct sunlight every day; at least 30 minutes to 1 hour. Sunlight provides frogs with Vitamin D3, which helps frogs digest calcium. To find out more, be sure to read my Frogs' Vitamins and Nutrients article.
• Just like in the wild, frogs need a period of undisturbed darkness. This is easily achieved by turning off their lights at night and leaving the terrarium undisturbed.

A good idea is to check on your frog a few times a day to make sure the temperature and humidity levels suit him perfectly. If the temperature is too high, turn the dimmer down on the heat lamp. If the humidity is too low, spray the terrarium with a squirt bottle and fresh water until it reaches the ideal humidity percentage. It's important to keep your frog's humidity in the ideal range, because frogs usually WILL NOT go take a swim in the water bowl if they overheat. They depend on you to keep them wet.

Fresh water should always be kept in the terrarium and cleaned out every day, even if frogs don't go to their bowls when they overheat.

Common Species of Frogs

There are hundreds of species of frogs for you to choose from. In this article, you will be able to see some of the more common species of frogs. This article is especially helpful if you're choosing your first frog.

African Bullfrog
The african bullfrog is also known as the pixie frog (due to its Latin name). This frog is known to eat voraciously and its diet includes: insects, small birds, small reptiles, small rodents and other amphibians. These frogs emit a loud croaking sound and is not a great frog for beginners, despite its cute name. These frogs can bite and can also blow up into a large balloon shape when frightened.

African Clawed Frog
These aquatic frogs have large back webbed feet and clawed front ones. They like warm, quiet waters and usually will feed on a variety of fish. They are scavengers and their aquarium needs to be kept clean. They can grow up to 5 inches in length and have a flattened head and body. They can range from a gray brown to a marbled color. Do not put these frogs in with any kind of fish.

African Dwarf Frog
These aquatic frogs need a roomy aquarium with 1-2 inches of space at the top. They breathe oxygen from the air, not the water and have lungs instead of gills. Their diet consists mostly of frozen bloodworms but variety is good in any frog's diet. These frogs are also scavengers and will eat anything living, dying or dead. Obviously these frogs SHOULD NOT be kept with fish of any kind. These frogs like to be kept with one or more of their kind due to their social nature. They have four webbed feet with small claws that will wear off on the rough pebbles at the bottom of an aquarium.

Bubble Frog
This frog is also known as the Rice Frog, Chubby Frog, Painted Frog and Asian Bullfrog. They like a terrarium with plenty of shelter and hiding places. They usually grow up to 7-8 centimeters. These frogs eat voraciously and their diet can include, but is not limited to: insects, worms, etc. These frogs are also known to croak loudly. Do not handle these frogs often as they secrete a glue-like slime that is hard to wash off.

Dart Frogs
These frogs are only for the experienced amphibian owner. They are small, colorful and vibrant frogs who need extremely small insects: baby crickets, fruit flies, meadow plankton, etc. Usually these poison dart frogs lose a lot, if not all of their poison when in captivity due to the foods they are fed. It is said that they get their poison from an ant they eat in the wild. Some dart frogs can live up to 15 years in captivity, though it's rare. Handling of these frogs should be completely avoided if possible.

Dumpy Tree Frog
These frogs are extremely cute, chubby, great for the beginner amphibian owner and love to be held. Also known as the White's Tree Frog and the Blue Bumpy Tree Frog. These frogs should have a large, tall terrarium. Dumpy tree frogs are nocturnal (they're active only at night unless recently disturbed) and usually will not come out in the day. These little guys eat voraciously and are very easy to overfeed. They're also very hardy to illness.

Firebelly Toads
The firebelly (or firebellied) toad require a little more work than other frogs, but they are good for the beginner amphibian owner. They usually don't grow any longer than 1.5 inches. The toad got its name from the red or yellow and black coloring on  its belly. These colorings warn predators off and remind them of the terrible taste of the firebellied toad. It is rather risky to house these toads with any other species of amphibians, since the toad secretes toxins from glands on the backside of its head. Also, firebellied toads can be very aggressive with other male firebellies.

Gray Tree Frog
These frogs can change colors from a light green to gray, depending on their mood and surroundings. They are medium in size and are great climbers. These tree frogs, like all tree frogs, need an arboreal habitat. They eat crickets, flies, mealworms and waxworms. Males sing or croak during the night to attract females.

Green Frog
These frogs have a very large tympanum, or ear. The tympanum is the circle right behind the eye of the frog. This frog needs a warm, humid climate with warm water and some real plants, if available. Real plants help hold in humidity and warmth. These frogs tend to stay near water, but some can be found inland. They eat small insects and tadpoles.

Green Tree Frog
This is a smaller specie of frogs that only grow up to be about 2.5 inches at most. They can change colors, like the dumpy frogs, from a dark olive green to bright lime green. They have a cream colored stripe running from their jaw to the tips of their legs. Some specimens do not have this stripe, but the more common ones do. These frogs are extremely quick and agile and for the intermediate amphibian owner. These frogs will eat small crickets and mealworms. Waxworms and other insects are too large.

Gold Frog
The Gold frog is the smallest frog in the Southern Hemisphere. They only grow up to about 1 centimeter in length, with the legs tucked in. These frogs, obviously, do not require a huge habitat due to their minute size. Provide lots of plants, logs, etc. for the frog to hide in and explore.

Leopard Frog
These frogs are slender and have a stripe very similar to the green tree frog. Its diet is mainly crickets, and a half and half habitat is ideal for this type of frog. These frogs like to hibernate for about 3 months.

Pacman Frog
AKA the Argentinan Horned Frog, the Bell Frog and also the Ornate Frog. These frogs have huge mouths, and some say this is where their name comes from. These frogs like a half-and-half habitat. Provide a small terrarium with rocks, a large pool, substrate and some artificial plants and the pacman frog will be happy. Their diet consists mostly of small fish, large bugs and mice. Not a great choice for the beginner amphibian owner. These also aren't a great pet if you're looking for an active frog. These frogs are diurnal, but they don't move around much.

Red Eyed Tree Frog
These are probably one of the most common types of frogs due to their beautiful variety of color. They have blue, green, yellow, red and orange on them. These frogs need a tall arboreal terrarium with the humidity kept between 80% - 100%. Some say these frogs are known to eat other smaller frogs as well as crickets. These frogs are extremely mellow and calm - great for beginners. Their red eyes help them to see in the dark (they're nocturnal) and hunt for dinner!

Tomato Frog
These are pretty large frogs - almost as large as a person's fist. The females are bigger than the males and can reach 3-4 inches in body length. They range from orange-red to dark red, hence the name "tomato" frog. As the frog grows, the color becomes brighter. These frogs need a soft, comfortable substrate to burrow into. Moss is ideal. These frogs will eat crickets, waxworms and pinkie mice. When frightened, these frogs can blow up like a balloon.

White's Tree Frogs
The White's tree frog is one of the cutest tree frogs out there. They have glossy green skin that can change from a very light green to a blue-ish teal. These frogs are very hardy and are also known as the Dumpy Tree Frog (see the above description) or Smiling Frog. They can also grow up to 4 inches in length. These tree frogs are nocturnal, not active during the day. Some aren't active at night, either, due to overfeeding. These little guys love to be held, but not overly so. The White's Tree Frog is a great pet for the beginner. These frogs will eat anything from mealworms to pinkie mice. They're quite easy to overfeed. Their habitat should be somewhat like the arboreal habitat, tall and with plenty of hiding and sleeping places.

To find out how to house, care for and feed crickets, read my Dealing with Crickets article.
To find more out about habitats and terrariums for your pet frogs, read my Your Frog's Habitat article.

Frogs' Vitamins and Nutrients

All frogs need a generous supply of vitamins and minerals on each serving of food. Crickets, mealworms and any other insects just don't have enough vitamins in them. There are several ways to supplement your frog's meal with plenty of vitamins.

One of the most important vitamins you could ever give a frog is Calcium. Calcium prevents many diseases, one of the most common is Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD). MBD is a very commonly fatal ilness found in frogs that lack proper nutrition that causes frogs' bones to become very weak. Weak bones can lead to broken bones, and broken bones can lead to crippling, even death.

However, it's important to understand that a lack of calcium is not the only reason for MBD in frogs. MBD can also be caused by a disorder of calcium metabolism. Some frogs cannot properly digest calcium, resulting in a disorder of the calcium. Still, all frogs are unable to digest calcium without a proper dosing of vitamin D3.

Frogs don't absorb vitamin D3 that well, either. MBD can also be caused by a lack of vitamin D3. Vitamin D3 and calcium are needed together in order to be properly digested in your frog.

I know this article is supposed to be about vitamins and nutrients, but while we're on the subject of MBD, here's a list of symptoms in young frogs:

• Swollen, flimsy or extremely small legs.
• Lethargy, lack of movement, difficulty hunting, jumping, etc.
• Constipation
• Bumps or ridges along the vertebral column or arched spine
• Weakness
• Recession of the lower jaw

In MBD's early stages, it can be very hard to recognize. But as the disease develops, the frog may struggle to eat and drink. MBD affects the skull, which results in recession of the lower jaw, inability of the mouth, or the tongue hanging out and appearing longer. Once the disease is much more fully developed than the list of symptoms above, here is another list of symptoms:

• Twitching of the legs, fingers and toes while active or even while at rest.
• Skinniness
• Paralysis
• Twitching or shakiness at being held
• Extreme malnutrition
• Bone fractures

Metabolic Bone Disease is easy to prevent. Always, always, always use a vitamin supplement on any of your frog's meals. Make sure it includes calcium and vitamin D3. These are two of the most vital vitamins a frog can have. I can't put enough emphasis on this! Other vitamins that your frog should have a small portion of include:

• Vitamin B12
• Vitamin B6
• Folic Acid
• Beta Carotene (vitamin A)
• Niacin
• Biotin
• Ascorbic Acid
• d-Pantothenic Acid
• Thiamine
• Riboflavin

This probably seems like an overwhelming list. Yet it's really simple. There are several ways to achieve all these vitamins and nutrients in one simple meal. I have found that by using the product: Zilla (brand) Food Spray Vitamin Supplement with Beta Carotene my frog is easily able to get a full dose of vitamins every day! You can find it at http://www.petco.com/ or probably at any store that sells crickets and amphibians.
This spray is easier than most powder supplements, because with a powder supplement you have to shake it onto the insects and then hope it doesn't shake back off again. With the vitamin spray, it only has to dry 15 seconds and is ready to give to your frog.
Preventing MBD:Use a vitamin supplement on every one of your frog's meals. Many resources suggest using supplements on every 3-4 meals, but that's not giving your frog enough nutrition.

Taking your Frog to the Vet

When your frog is clearly sick with an illness, most diseases are incurable from home. You can treat some diseases with special chemicals, but they're not all that cheap and take professional care. The best answer is always to take your frog to the veterinarian.

If you know your frog is truly sick (believe me, it's pricy to take your frog to the vet), you will want to give your vet a call. See if the technician over the phone recognizes any of your frog's symptoms after listing them all. Follow their advice, and set up an appointment as soon as possible. If you cannot get your frog to the animal hospital that very day, make your frog as comfortable as possible. My frog is a tree frog, so I doubled the heat and lighting, kept him moist, and checked on him every few hours.

To take your frog to the veterinarian, you will need to be able to transport them in a way that's most comfortable for your frog. Unless you have a small animal keeper, you will need to use a plastic cup with Seran wrap over the top. Secure the wrap with a rubber band and punch plenty of holes in the top of the cup using a toothpick or pencil. Always keep a moistened (not soaking wet) paper towl in the bottom of the cup for a refreshing retreat for your frog.

When choosing the best veterinarian for your frog, you will need to go in the phonebook or online and find out which animal hospital is nearest to you, and which animals they serve. If they don't serve small animals, don't call, because they probably won't be able to help you with your frog.

When handling sick frogs, make sure you read my Handling Frogs article.

Also see my Frog Health and Diseases article. This will give very basic information on frogs' diseases.

Another thing to do to get top-quality amphibian veterinary services is to call the pet store you bought your frog from. Just ask them what they think and if they have any recommendations for a local vet, because pet stores have to take their animals to the vet once in a while, too. I did this and found the most wonderful animal hospital.

Remember, your veterinarian only has so many supplies and resources. Your frog may be incorrectly diagnosed, or may not get diagnosed at all. Do what you can for your frog that will make him more comfortable, including administering faithfully any medications or treatments the vet prescribes. Don't lose heart if your frog does not make it through his illness. My first frog did not, even though I took him to a vet and did all I could for him (read my In Memory of Jungle article).

Housing Crickets

Crickets are an extremely important food in your frog's diet. Many frogs do not get the nutrition they absolutely need from mealworms, since mealworms are almost all exoskeleton, and most frogs aren't interested in waxworms (I know mine sure wasn't!).

Crickets are inexpensive, easy to get, available, and your frog will love them. Frogs are meant to hunt for their food, and they are unable to do that with mealworms and waxworms if they're in a little dish.

In order to keep crickets, you will have to either make or purchase a Kriket Keeper (brand).This little box is a convenient way to house crickets without them going all over the house.

Keep food and moisture in your crickets' home to keep them alive and for extra nutrients for your frog. What the crickets eat, your frog will be eating (in a sense). Feed the crickets things rich in calcium. Also purchase cricket water gel or food from the pet store for an extra supplement boost. However, if you don't want to purchase anything else for the crickets besides a cricket keeper, there is a solution involving things everyone has at home.

You will need to "gutload" your crickets at least 24 hours before feeding them to your frog. In order to gut load crickets, you will need to keep foods high in calcium in their keeper including:

• Spinach. A very calcium rich vegetable that gives calcium, water and food. Great for the frog, too.
• Carrots. These also are very high in calcium.
• Potato chunks
• Oats
• Fresh fruits and other vegetables
• Dog food. I have never tried this, but I have heard that crickets will eat it. Dog food is full of rice, grains and meat that are good for your crickets.
• Apple slices
• Dark, green leafy vegetables
• Bran
• A damp sponge for moisture
• Fish flakes

Remember, what goes into the crickets goes into your frog. If your crickets are gut loaded with calcium and other rich minerals and vitamins, it can prevent many diseases in your frog including MBD (metabollic bone disease). Also, sprinkle the cricket's food with a reptile vitamin calcium supplement.

It is possible to overfeed your crickets. Do not feed your frog dead crickets. Try to keep as much vegetable and fruit in your crickets as possible without killing them off.

Another thing I have noticed as I have lived with crickets is that they seem to be really hungry when you bring them home from the petstore. It seems like they don't get the feast at the petstore that you can give them at home. Before putting your new crickets into the Kricket Keeper, make sure the keeper is clean and has plenty (if not small portions of all) of the food listed above in the keeper. The crickets will all scatter to the different foods, and when it comes time to feed them to your frog, they will have a variety of different nutrients in them.

You might hear that hear that crickets stink, but I have never experienced this, and have been keeping crickets as long as I've been keeping pets. The smaller the cricket, the less the odor, and the quieter the chirps! Also, crickets might escape their keeper once in a while. But once they're out, they're difficult to find (much less put back into the cage!). You have to be willing to live with this if you're going to house crickets.

How many crickets to feed my frog?
This answer changes with every frog. It really depends on how large your frog is, and how big his appetite. For new frogs, try 3 crickets on the first day. If there are no crickets in the habitat the next day, stick with 3 crickets unless your frog seems to be underweight. If there are still crickets jumping around like they own the habitat, wait until they disappear, then try 2 crickets the next feeding.

For small, immature frogs, feed them every day. For adult frogs that are larger and more mature, you should be feeding them 3-5 times a week. This also all depends on how large your frog is and how overweight/underweight he is looking. Frogs (with the White's Tree Frog as an exception) usually will stop eating when they're full and go hunting again when they're hungry. White's Tree Frogs will usually eat until they pop and it's very important not to overfeed them.

In Memory of Jungle

Jungle, my little Blue Bumpy Frog, started acting strangely when I had last cleaned out his habitat. Things started going downhill even farther, and I finally took him in to a veterinarian.

He was diagnosed with Bacterial Septicemia, which is a stomach infection in frogs. They also gave me a medication to administer to him.

Jungle hadn't eaten for a few weeks (really, this proves frogs can go about 2 1/2 weeks without eating) and was starting to lose a lot of weight, especially around his legs. So, I took him in to the vet again. They started me on Metrinidazole, liquid calcium, and Carnivore Care.

Jungle seemed to be doing better... until Friday night, February 25, 2011, when he passed away.